![]() Tip #5: Make sure you have water and the sky in your photo But if you shoot where the sun sets you will always have great details even after sunset, and it is the right time for these type of photos. You can see that we get less and less details in the sky. You can see on this photo that the sun is setting on the left.Īnd as I turn the camera more away from the sun and back towards the city you get this view. When it is behind the horizon line it will always give you a nice sky with lots of color and gradations. When you are doing a long exposure without an ND filter (so as to avoid the color cast, tip #1), a good thing to do is to shoot toward the sun. Go ahead and try 8 seconds, 15 seconds, 25 seconds all without touching the tripod and then when you are evaluating your photos for retouching you will have several options. So you already have your camera setup and on a tripod. For example, I thought that this first image was my go-to photo.īut in the end the one that I am going to retouch and going to send to the gallery is this one. Tip #3: Try different exposures of the same sceneĮven though I said that 25 seconds exposure is the best, it’s always good to shoot different exposures because this may be different for your situation. ![]() Just make sure you check your focus to ensure the background is sharp. If your photo is too bright you can adjust the aperture to f/14 and if it is too dark you can even put your aperture to f/4. To conclude 25 seconds is the best long exposure, you don’t even need a remote, you just need to put your camera on the 2-second timer and go into manual shooting mode, use a low ISO, and an aperture that is going to work like f/7 or f/8. Now it does seem like the highlights in the photos are a little burnt, but I have found that on city lights it doesn’t really matter that much because it still works great on a print. So I went ahead and put the exposure time to 25 seconds. I do have all the details of the photo, but the only problem is that the clouds were not moving and the water is not silky. So when you open up the shadows, bring down the highlights, and boost the exposure a little bit like so: Now, in taking the photo I exposed the image for the highlights. The best indicator that people like your photos is that they buy them.įirst I started with a 6 second exposure. Obviously it’s also an artistic choice, but as a photographer you likely want people to buy your photos. Here is why I recommend this I’ve found that when I shoot at 25 seconds it makes the water silky and the clouds stretchy and this has a beautiful look that sells well. Not as bold as stating that French food is the best in the world, but still a bold statement. Tip #2: The best time for long exposures is 25 seconds Don’t get me wrong, I love ND filters but not at night. Shoot when the sun is going down and keep your camera at a low ISO like 100 or 200. Yes you can use a polarizer, but avoid Neutral Density filters. If you put an ND filter on it is going to give you a color cast during long exposures. There was less light, so that I didn’t have to put an ND Filter on. That is quite a long exposure and to help prevent it from blowing out, I took the photo right at the end of sunset. On this photo (below) I did a 25 second exposure. ![]() Tip #1: Try to avoid using a Neutral Density filter ![]() So here are the 6 tips to make your long exposure photographs at night: I have learned the hard way by making every mistake possible and through that finding what really does work. Just 5 minutes after taking the above picture, i took another few 10 second exposures with no problems at all.In this article I am going to share with you six tips that I have found to produce amazing long exposure night photographs. sometimes it is there, and sometimes it is not so i am guessing that perhaps it is not related to heat? sometimes my 10 second exposures had no strange colors, and sometimes they did have them, it seemed to be quite random. Oh no! i thought, and dropped to 10 seconds, and for the rest of the day, it was hit and miss. I went out today and tried some shots with a 10 stop filter, but to my surprise the very first shots i took at a mere 30 seconds, produced the same issue. the following picture is a 30 minute exposure with the lens cap on, just so its clear, two reddish bands running across the image : so i just figured to reduce the exposure time. I first noticed this issue when trying some very long exposures - 30 minutes or so - and i figured that it was due to the sensor getting warm or something.
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